Free crochet pattern for Hera top

Free crochet pattern for Hera top

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Links

Check out other Galazio DIY projects in our [fancy_link title=\”blog\” link=\”https://galazio.net/galazio-blog/\” target=\”\” style=\”3\” class=\”\” download=\”\”]

You can purchase this pattern in different sizes in our [fancy_link title=\”shop\” link=\”https://galazio.net/shop/crochet-pattern-thetis-bralette/\” target=\”\” style=\”3\” class=\”\” download=\”\”]

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Hera (/ˈhɛrə, ˈhɪərə/; Greek: Ἥρᾱ, Hērā; Ἥρη, Hērē in Ionic and Homeric Greek) is the goddess of women, marriage, family and childbirth in ancient Greek religion and mythology, one of the Twelve Olympians and the sister and wife of Zeus. She is the daughter of the Titans Cronus and Rhea. Hera rules over Mount Olympus as queen of the gods. A matronly figure, Hera served as both the patroness and protectress of married women, presiding over weddings and blessing marital unions.
Hera, Greek mythology, Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hera

Supplies

Supplies

50 g skein of Karma 100% cotton yarn – 4 or any other DK weight cotton yarn

4 mm crochet hook

5 mm wide elastic band

12 mm crochet hook

a piece of cardboard

An embroidery needle to sew in ends
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Making cups

Making cups

The bralette is a tight fit. Start by measuring your breast size – since the shape and the size are both highly individual it is recommended to make your own measurements and use the pattern instructions as a general guide. Measuring your breast size is very simple: you only need to determine the length between the tip of your nipple and your rib under the breast. Here is a sketch to help you understand which part exactly you need to measure:

The length of that space determines the length of the starting chain you will need to make.
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Crochet top Hera front
Crochet top Hera front

cups
Cup size B basic instructions

R.1

Chain 11+1, single crochet (sc) into the 2d chain from the hook, sc into all other chains, 3 sc into the last chain of the row. Sc across the other side of the chain. Chain 1 and turn. Repeat the same for R.2 – R.13.

For size A – 8 rows

For size C – 18 rows

For size D – 23 rows

For size E – 26 rows

After the last stitch of the last row, work a sc in the same stitch and continue sideways. Crochet 37 rows of sc.

For size A – 34 rows

For size C – 40 rows

For size D – 42 rows

For size E – 43 rows

Repeat R.1 – R. 12 for the second cup. Crochet half of the R.13, join the top of the cup with the top stitch of the first cup, finish the R.13. Repeat the sc band as for the first cup. Slip stitch the bands together.

Sc into the bottom of the band – the number of stitches should be even. Chain 2, turn. Alpine stitch across the row, 3 dc into the stitch in between 2 cups. Repeat for R. 2-3. Continue working the alpine stitch R.4 – R.13.
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Making the bodice in the Daisy stitch
Edging – top part

Sc bl – single crochet back loop

Sc fr – single crochet front loop

To keep the top in place in the absence of straps we need to crochet an elastic band inside. We will do it for the back f the top, so that the front part doesn’t get deformed. Measure a piece of elastic that is approximately half the width of the back. Cut it and place it in the middle of the back. Take a sewing needle and thread, sew the band in between the front and the back loops at its beginning and its end. Start at the seam, chain one into the bl, put sc into the back loop of the same stitch, work sc bl till the stitch where the elastic is sewn, the next stitch and all stitches till the stitch with the elastic (its other end) work in sc. Once you reach the elastic, sc bl. Finish the round, cast off. Attach the thread into the stitch at the beginning of the elastic, work sc flo till the end of the elastic. Cast off. Attach the thread to the seam, chain one, sc joining bl and fl stitches of the previous row. Sc in sc stitches of the previous row and then again bl and fl of the previous row. Finish the round, cast off. Try to crochet in the ends, this way there will be less of them to sew in afterward.

Edging – bottom part

SC – single crochet

DC – double crochet

CH – chain

TCH – turning chain

Multiple of 9 sts + 1 st (add 1 st for base chain).

R. 1: 1sc into 2nd ch from hook, * 3ch, skip 3ch, 1sc into next ch, 7ch, 1sc into next ch, 3ch, skip 3ch, 1sc into next ch; rep from * to end, turn.

R. 2: 1ch, 1sc into 1st dc, * skip 3ch, work 13 dc into next 7ch-arch, skip 3ch, 1sc into next st; rep from * to end, skip tch, turn.

R. 3: 5ch, skip 1st sc and next 5dc, * 1sc into next tr, 5ch, skip 1tr, 1sc into next tr, ** 5ch, skip (next 5dc, 1sc and 5dc); rep from * ending last rep at **, skip next 5 dc, 4ch, 1sc into last dc. Cast off.

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Making tassels

To make tassels take a piece of cardboard of the length you need your tassels to be. Wrap the thread 10 times around the cardboard, cut the thread take it off the cardboard carefully, cut the bottom of the loop. Take a 12 mm hook, put it through an arch from the inside, pull in the tassel loop, put the ends of the tassel into its loop. Tighten carefully, trim the ends. Repeat for all the tassels keeping the same number of wraps.

Sewing in ends

To sew in ends, sew them at least 3 times in in different directions, split the thread, pull one part under a thread in the work, tie the ends together. Repeat for all the loose ends.

Please feel free to share your items on Instagram (or other social media) and tag @galazio.official and #thetisbralette. You are allowed to sell finished items produced with this pattern, but please give the pattern credit to @galazio.official. Please do not share, change, sell or claim this pattern as your own.

Enjoy your bralette and wear it with pride!

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Crochet top Hera back
Crochet top Hera back