This FREE version of the pattern is for S/M size only! You can buy a PDF downloadable file in GalazioShop on Etsy with instructions for S/M, L and XL sizes.GalazioShop on Etsy
The pattern is made for a loose fit.
There are 4 parts : front, back and 2 sleeves - everything is worked flat and then seamed together.
This pattern is written using US terminology.
Gauge (10x10cm / 4x4”) 12 rows of 17 chain stitches across (Non-blocked gauge).
For any questions concerning the pattern contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I will be happy to help :)
Recommended yarn: Drops Puna (100% alpaca) or any other light worsted / 3 weight yarn - 10 skeins of 50 gr for an S/M size sweater.
Yarn usage: 10 skeins of the indicated yarn for S/M size.
Crochet hook size: 5.00 mm / H8
Tapestry needle to weave ends and a normal needle
Stitch markers or similar (you can use safety pins with attached scraps of contrasting yarn)
Pair of scissors
This pattern is written in one size: S/M
Sweater in pictures is size S/M.
Ch - chain
Sts - stitches
SC - single crochet
DC - double crochet
Chain an odd number of stitches. SC into the 2d st from the hook, DC into the same stitch. Skip a stitch, repeat SC+DC into one stitch. Work the suzette stitch across the row. At the end of the row work 1 suzette stitch and a SC into the remaining stitch (the last stitch of the row). Chain one, turn your work and continue working the suzette stitch.
Before we start working on the pattern I would like to mention that it is important to leave longer (about 5 cm/2 inch long) ends at the beginning of each part and at the end so that you can weave them in afterwards.
BODY - FRONT
Crochet the suzette stitch across the rows until you reach 46 cm/18 inch length. Shoulders (both are worked starting from the straight part and ending in 2 suzette sts crocheted together). Place a stitch marker into the 24 st from the beginning of the row and another one into the 24 st from the end of the row. *Start the row, work suzette st till there are 6 sts left, crochet 2 suzette sts together and a SC*. Chain one, turn your work and work suzette st across the row.
Work the suzette stitch across the rows till the section measures 54 cm/22 inch.
Two identical 7/8 sleeves (it means that they are supposed to be slightly shorter than normal), worked flat from bottom up and then sewn to the body parts of the sweater.
Start with chaining 35 and work SC across the first row to make the edge nice and clean. You can also skip this first row and work it in the suzette st right away.
The suzette st across the rows.
Start the row with the suzette stitch, place 2 suzette sts (SC, DC, SC, DC) into the 3d suzette stitch of the row. Continue till you have 6 stitches (chain stitches, not suzette) left and place again 2 suzette sts into one st. Work one suzette st and a SC to end the row. Chain one, turn your work and continue working the suzette st across the next 9 rows.
Work the suzette st across the row.
Repeat row 6.
Rows 16-45 (45 rows for 7/8 sleeves, 50 for standard length sleeves).
Work the suzette st across the row.
Use the invisible stitch to seam the front and back sections. Start by seaming the shoulders. Place stitch markers to hold the sections together as you work.
This stitch does not have a strict right or wrong side, you choose which one is your right and which one is your wrong.
I suggest sewing the sleeves and the body all together - this way it is easier to do it correctly. We place our already sewn body section on a flat surface, front part up. Then we need to fold the sleeves in half long ways and place a stitch marker in the stitch in the middle of each sleeve. After that we attach one sleeve to the shoulder with the stitch marker to keep the sleeve in the right place while we are sewing it to the body section.
After that, place the parts on the flat surface neckline up, so that you can see both the front and back sections open and the sleeve attached to the shoulder seam with a stitch marker. Start by sewing a sleeve to the shoulder part of the body section as indicated in the image (the green line). Then fold the garment in half again and sew the side seam of the body part from the bottom up and the sleeve seam (image on p. 6). Repeat with the second sleeve. Now we will need to weave in the ends with the tapestry needle, 3-4 turns should be enough. Normally it would be the last step to hold the garment together but with the recommended yarn (it is quite sleek) I suggest taking a normal needle and a thread of a matching colour (white or beige in this case) and securing all the knots and ends well.
Check and adjust seams on each shoulder if needed. You can use a smaller hook here. With right side (not inside out) of the sweater facing you, attach your yarn in the middle of the back section with a slip knot. Work the picot border stitch across the neckline.
Picot border stitch
To create the picot border stitch for this garment you can start by chaining one, then SC into the next stitch, then you insert your hook into the next chain, pull up a loop (2 loops on the hook), chain one, two, three and then insert your hook into the back post of the first stitch in the picot and work a slip stitch, then SC into the next 2 sts and crochet a picot again. You may alternate picots and SC the way you want, I prefer making a picot into every 3d stitch.
Please feel free to share your items on Instagram (or other social media) and tag @galazio.official and #pulloverathena. You are allowed to sell finished items produced with this pattern, but please give pattern credit to @galazio.official. Please do not share, change, sell or claim this pattern as your own.
Enjoy your pullover and wear it with pride!